Dispatch from the DF: Easter In Drug-War Torn Acapulco

We escaped Mexico City this week and spent Semana Santa in Acapulco. My husband, our toddler daughter, his two teen daughters and me.

I told a friend of mine back home in the U.S. “I heard that city’s a war zone. Aren’t you scared?” I have seen the news.

Drug cartels are waged in a bloody turf war nearby. Innocent people have been lost in the crossfire. There have been many clashes between the Mexican military and gunmen in the area. I do get nervous when the military caravans patrol the area – big trucks loaded with young stone-faced soldiers carrying rifles almost as tall as they are – but I’m glad they’re here.

On most street corners you see armed police officers keeping an eye out for trouble. My heart aches for them in their heavy uniforms with bulletproof vests and big black boots in the oppressive heat. At the beach, federal police helicopters pass by hourly, flying low and keeping an eye on the beaches. It’s an impressive sight. The mood here is more cautious, not as carefree as it was a few years ago. Drive on the streets at night and you’ll find fewer cars. The Wal Mart is still open 24 hours but I only go during daylight hours and never without my husband.

Driving around the city means the shortest routes possible along busy main streets, never venturing into unknown parts of town. Knowing this, the complex where we rent a condo has hired a DJ and opened its own discoteca in one of the salons. Ok, it is kind of lame but it’s better than heading into town. We joke that at least there’s no sobriety checkpoint at the end of the night. Bonus!

So why do we come here? In spite of the bad press, Acapulco remains the grand dame of Mexican beaches. Like many grand dames, she’s a little weathered and a shadow of the young beauty she once was. Ok, I admit it. The beaches aren’t the nicest and the water is nowhere near the crystal blue of the Mayan Riviera. But leave Cancun to the tourists. Acapulco is Mexico City’s playground. At the basic level, it’s simply a matter of distance. Acapulco is the closest beach to Mexico City – about 200 miles away. And there’s a toll road – “la Autopista del Sol” – that exists solely to take people to the playa pronto. The tolls are pricey, but much cheaper than airfare. And that’s the second reason I think Acapulco is still a favorite destination – price.

Chilangos are notoriously into appearances and very status conscious so most will not admit it. But you can easily pack a family into the car and find a good variety of hotels at every price point. From the very cheap to uber chic. And the beaches are public property so we all enjoy the same sun and sea. But there’s one reason you can’t keep me away. For my money, Cancun is the best beach in Mexico. But once you turn away from the beach, and look around you realize it’s become a circus – kind of a Disneyland by the sea. Acapulco isn’t Disneyland. And that’s the way we like it. A little rough around the edges, a little gritty, but very familiar.

On any one of the multiple holiday weekends through the year ( called “puentes” or bridges), the four hour trip turns into seven or more hours because of the sheer volume of cars fleeing the Mexican capital. Drive around the beaches this weekend and you’ll see more Mexico DF license plates than from anywhere else. Luis Miguel has three sold out performances here this week. Apparently, the prince of Mexican pop feel safe enough to sing here.

The dolphins and the turtles we saw today don’t know about Acapulco’s problems on land. The sun still shines on Acapulco’s famous beaches. In spite of the challenges, there is still much to enjoy here. “Acapulco no deja de ser Acapulco” Acapulco doesn’t stop being Acapulco. After all, we tell each other, the problems are mostly in the colonias, the overwhelmingly poor areas of town. We notice that the bad guys tend to stay away from the tourist areas and the nicer parts of town. We learn to live with the inconvenience brought on by a drug war. Rocio, a friend of mine with us on vacation, told me the cleaning lady couldn’t come to her condo yesterday. “The military was looking for someone in her neighborhood and made everyone stay inside,” she said. She shrugged her shoulders. “What are you gonna do?” And that’s the new reality in Acapulco for now. Most of us just accept it. To be honest, I kind of like it this way. Common sense is the new rule. As a mother and stepmother to three girls, I like the fact that there are precautions to take, rules to follow. I like the fact that we stick together and that all three of our girls are within sight at all times. I like that it’s a real family vacation. I just hope that feeling lasts through the seven hour car ride back to Mexico City.

Feliz Pascua!